Chasing Lions: A Ronde Recap
Origin Story:
In Portland's verdant landscape, where the rain nurtures not just the flora but the spirit of adventure, De Ronde Van Oeste Portlandia took root, named after De Ronde van Vlaanderen (Tour de Flanders). It was more than just a cycling event; it was a celebration of the city's undulating topography and the camaraderie that comes with conquering it. Hugh Givens and Brad Ross, the masterminds behind this endeavor, both seasoned cyclists, sought to build a course that would challenge and delight in equal measure.
Photos Provided by Hugh and Brad
Their creation was woven from the many hidden byways and ascents of West Portland, a route that whispered of the city's untold stories. Each climb was a narrative, each descent a release, and the Flemish lions that marked their path were like breadcrumbs leading to a fabled treasure—the sense of accomplishment at the journey's end.
After all, there was No Prize but Honor.
The event was inspired by a trip to Belgium, where Brad noticed the Eddy Merkx routes.
"The routes were numbered and color-coded. Depending on your desired distance and difficulty level, you'd have any number of rides to choose from. Once you started on a route, they were so well marked that it was virtually impossible to get lost. I loved this and thought that it might be something that could be replicated in Portland."-Brad Ross.
"Brad grabbed a Portland city map, and - over beers - we started to piece together a ride that connected all of the cool climbs and routes we could think of. Maybe because we both had experience as bike race promoters or maybe because the beers had taken over, but an idea emerged to create a really challenging ride that we would invite friends to do with us as an homage to De Ronde Van Vlaanderen."-Hugh Givens
The inspiration was evident not just in its name but in its ethos. The Tour of Flanders, with its storied climbs, was a siren call to those who sought to test their mettle. De Ronde PDX echoed this call, inviting cyclists to challenge themselves to chase lions up and down Portland's own cobblestone-free but equally formidable hills.
As the years passed, De Ronde PDX became a beacon, drawing cyclists from near and far. The yellow spray-painted lions became a symbol of a shared quest, a sign that here, in this corner of the world, cycling was not just a sport but a way of life. The event was organic, growing, and evolving with each edition. It was not confined by the strictures of formal races; it was fluid, a ride that could be as solitary or communal as desired.
With their acumen as a cycling race promoters, Brad & Hugh saw De Ronde as their ode to Portland's cycling scene—a scene that had given them so much. The mid-ride parties and the spontaneous stands offering lemonade and cookies were the pulse points of this living entity, moments where the community's heart beat strongest.
When Brad moved away, Hugh soloed De Ronde for a bit. However, this was a chance to pass the torch to someone else, and De Ronde's future hung in the balance. But the story was far from over. In Devin Bailly, the event found a new steward, one with the energy and vision to carry the legacy forward. De Ronde PDX was not just a ride; it was a testament to the enduring allure of Portland's streets and the indomitable spirit of its cycling community—a community that continues to thrive, bound by the shared love of the ride.
“My favorite moments are meeting people at the end of a ride who just finished their first PDX Classics route. They are invariably smiling wide and justifiably proud of themselves for enduring the suffering they just subjected themselves to. Sometimes, these folks hadn't even started cycling until recently. I wish we could bottle up that enthusiasm and confidence and give it to people with the "There's no way I could do that" attitude.”-Devin Bailey
The route:
Although the majority of the route remains the same, each version has a slight variation, the map below is for the 2024 version.
Painting The Breadcrumbs:
I was lucky to have time and be in Portland to volunteer to paint part of the course and saturate my experience of this event, which influenced my cycling habits.
I've always been curious about the efforts that go behind marking the course every year. Especially since I randomly ran into volunteers over the years painting the course in the hills. Albeit it might seem simple to head out with spray paint, flemish lion stencil and just paint over the preexisting lion markers. However, it's more trivial than that.
The volunteers who opt to paint the course also opt to interact with the public, whether driving, walking, or staring at you from their front door. Luckily, from what I understood, it's mostly been curiosity and not much animosity.
You're rarely in the same spot long enough; I felt elusive under everyone else's noses.
I packed the stencil Devin gifted me years ago and a can of yellow paint and headed for the hills. Following Devin's instructions, which distilled his experience marking the course over the years, I jumped from marking one lion to the next following the course.
Although some sections were relatively easy due to little to no traffic, others were the complete opposite, with cars rushing down the road. On such sections, I got everything ready, jumped on the road, painted the lion & arrow, and went off to the next one.
Completing the section I volunteered for felt very rewarding, especially the opportunity to give back to an event that shaped my cycling experience over the years. If you have the knack for such a thing, I highly recommend you contact Devin (http://www.rondepdx.com/) to volunteer for the next one.
Ride Report:
The lions were out of the den.
John Wish and I rolled out under the crisp and chilly morning sun towards Nossa's Coffee HQ in the NW industrial area, where they graciously caffeinated us with their superb Full Cycle blend. Along the way, we swept more lion chasers on their way to the start line.
It was a peculiar feeling because many of the Ronde's I've ridden in the past had inclement weather! Or perhaps I had scars left from the past? Overall, the weather couldn't have been any better for a day of up, lots, and down.
Post-second breakfast courtesy of the donors (Nossa, Henry boiled bagels, St.Honore), our group hit the road 10 minutes earlier than the official starting time. We wanted to be ahead of the bulge (the masses), but we knew that we'd be getting dropped quickly.
Prior to the event, I scoped out angles and POVs I wanted to capture. The Ronde was the perfect time to capture candid shots of all the spots I had in mind. The challenge was to not only keep up but blast ahead of the group to position myself and wait for them to roll by.
Luckily, I was blessed with the best group that day, the A-Team kept the spirits higher the very hills we climbed.
Saltzman came quickly. With that came the first and longest climb of the day. The well-known gravel climb starts and ends with steep grads packing lots of stoke along the climb. The sun shined at the right angle, contrasting shadows and highlights.
With Skyline on the horizon, I found my group patiently waiting for me!
Regrouped, we single-filed our way to the cemetery, where the first steep, twisty descent cuts through toward Northwest Heights. This side of the west hills packs some of the steepest roads in the area. Think of this section as a warm-up for what was to come just a few miles down the road.
Although the section through the NW Heights is short, it still burns!
Back up to Skyline, riders flew down Cornel facing west. The left turn at the light marked the baddest lion of them all, the infamous Brynwood. Officially, it is one of the two steepest roads in Portland, and the other is Collage, which is also on the route.
I sped ahead of the group to position myself for an angle I wanted to capture. Seconds later, the bulge arrived. Aside from the occasional "holy cow!!" uttered by some riders, the sounds of shifting of the gears to the largest cog followed. Seeing the cyclists get smaller as they ascend the steep hill and make that right turn halfway up. For those climbing it for the first time, that right turn might catch you by surprise. As soon as you turn, the second and steeper part of the hill awaits.
By then, your legs are already burning, your lungs soon follow, and eventually, your hands will give up. But fret not—Brynwood offers refuge with half a dozen driveways you can catch your breath at.
The top seems so far, but it's only yards away; in between you and the top is a sharp hairpin to the left. Take the inside corner and earn your prize, Honor. Stay on the outside and earn your sweat. The cheers of your fellow lion chasers at the summit are contagious and encouraging.
With Brynwood behind you, the long and much-earned Cornel descent is ahead.
Through the tunnels and at the bottom of the hill comes the next section. Enter the first squiggly line section of the day. The historic Kings Heights neighborhood is filled with history, if you know where to look, of course!
The first climb takes you through one of the last remaining brick roads in Portland, Culpepper Terrace. The flat-ish section is a prelude to the steep zigzags just around the corner. I feel right at home in this part of the hills, and I can't even recall how many miles I've ridden there. One thing I know, I still haven't gotten my fill.
Just as you think you're closing in on Pittock Mansion, you face east and head downhill, weaving in between the old roads in Kings Heights for yet another round.
Following the narrow roads up, we passed Pittock Mansion towards the next summit through the quant NW Barnes Rd. Just shy of the summit, right when you lay eyes on Burnside Rd, to your left, is one of my all-time favorite morning views. During certain periods in the winter, the morning sun aligns perfectly to illuminate the shaded and narrow gulch with warm colors. Simply not to be missed!
Seizing the opportunity to catch lion chasers flying down W Burnside, I awaited them with my finger on the trigger, listening to their hubs amplified by the Burnside tunnel beneath me as they blazed down the steep hill like bats out of hell!
Now, it was my turn.
Going through my rite of passage down Burnside, I reconnected with the A-Team again to continue toward the next squiggly section of the day, Washington Park. Hands Down, a cyclist sanctuary minutes from Downtown Portland. Covered in towering trees and history, this area comprises many small neighborhoods, home to stellar roads at every turn.
We climbed over the ridge, passing through the Zoo and into the Sylvan Highlands. It was great seeing people in the neighborhood out and interacting with us. We also saw Devin extending an olive branch to the locals, hopefully paving the way to another Ronde with excited observers.
SW 57th & Taylor Ave are the two walls left to climb before returning to downtown, not before sharing a gas station snack with the team. The stoke, weather, and legs all felt great!
Past the halfway marker, the A-team regrouped, ready to tackle the next section, climbing up the Zoo and onwards down Washington Park. I was surprised to see the Aid station there because we were pacing ahead of a descent. It caught me off guard, for sure. Again, thanks to the generous supporters, we refueled for the next half and more.
The balance between the climbs and descents is skewed towards more climbs, of course, but they make the descents that much better.
At the bottom yet again.
College.
For some, this is harder than Brynwood, perhaps because it's steeper* or because it comes after so many steep climbs in between!
*According to my research, whether Brynwood or College is steeper than the other still needs to be confirmed. What do you think? Comment below!
I was looking forward to College, a dividing point in the course. Ride it too fast and burn a match, lose momentum, and you will be forced to start again at the small, narrow driveways or join those climbing on foot.
Near the top, I noticed Mark, who brought a tall bike to conquer the hills, a sight to be seen!
Making the rounds down my favorite part of the hills, we again started climbing towards the iconic lion statue on SW Buckingham Ave and back up towards the finish line. This part of the route is the ultimate teaser. You head back down again as soon as you're near the top.
However, with every drop and ascent, riders are exposed to the very same roads, cuts, easements, and hidden dirt trails that inspired Brad and Hugh to put together this amazing route over 15 years ago!
Alas, the beautiful and equally challenging day was soon to end. The A-team managed to keep the group together over the hills, down the steeps, and under tree canopies. With the communications tower atop Council Crest in view, the end was in sight.
On the slow and final climb towards Council Crest, I took a chance to soak up the sun and watch my team go at it still. At the top, lion chasers took over the summit, enjoying the views, sunshine, and snacks.
High fives went all over, and the day was well spent.
Those of you, dear readers, who read my articles might have picked up that I romanticize my rides, events, and adventures. However, when I sit down and compose my thoughts about such events and even simple sunrise rides, I genuinely try to cast what I feel into words, not just what I think. After over 2 years of writing these articles and reports, I'm finally leaning into my voice, feelings, and perception of my shared past. I genuinely feel and reminisce the very same words I wrote here.
This ride easily counts as one of my top 10 rides in the past few years. Sure, I have thousands of miles under my heels on the very same roads we just rode, but the experience is never the same. One day, you're climbing, the other descending; it might be sunny or snowy; you might be alone or with friends who are more than willing to share the experience. Whatever the case might be, go ride your bike, and be mindful that those moments are ephemeral, so live every second of it to the fullest.